Part 7 is the last in Matthew Bary’s series Duotone cyanotype on how to create and print the second layer of the duotone cyanotype print. It explains how to dilute the cyanotype solution for better control and shows the importance of proper registration when aligning the negative with the first layer print.
Printing the second layer of the duotone cyanotype
Making the second layer!
Now that all of the steps are done for the first layer we can make the second and last layer. This layer uses a modified cyanotype solution, when I was preforming all of my tests on multi layer cyanotypes I realized that the reason I had so many issues was because of the cyan layer. You see printing is a subtractive color method and this means that the cyan layer does not need to be dark at all, in fact if you look at printer ink the cyan is quite pale. You can get a standard cyanotype solution to print lighter by manipulating the negative and adjusting print times but this is very tedious and very finicky. My solution to the problem was to dilute the cyan layer solution which gives much more control and does not require special negative modification, in fact the exposure time is the same as the first layer.
The formula for layer two
It is very simple. Use a 10/10 solution as you did in the first layer but you use less of it and dilute it in half with distilled water. So if you use 10 ml of solution A then add 10 ml of solution B and stir up well, then you would add 20 ml of distilled water and stir that up well. You are now ready to apply the second layer.
5% ferric ammonium citrate and 5% potassium ferricyanide:
Measure 1 part of diluted solution A that you used when making the first layer in part 6 and 1 part of solution B.
Mix well.
Dilute the mixed A + B soution with equal amounts of distilled water and mix well. This dilutes the 10% solutions to a 5% solution.
Apply to the paper.
Now lay your print of the first layer down and use the same preparations from making the first layer. Then gently brush on the solution side to side and up and down as before. This layer is a little delicate due to all the soaking and handling of the paper from the previous steps. After you have applied the second layer let it set a few moments as before to soak in.
After the paper has sat for a short while hold it in front of a fan to help dry it off. Only use a fan and never warm air. This step is critical as it reduces the green staining from the interaction between the cyanotype solution and the tannic acid in the first layer. Hold it in front of the fan until it no longer looks wet then hang up and allow to fully dry.
As soon as the paper is dry proceed to the next steps, at this point, the second layer is not stable enough to store and expose later it must be done right after dying. You will see that the paper is a slightly bluish-green color.
Place the paper on a piece of glass or surface just like we did for the first layer and lay your cyan negative print side down on the paper. This is where you have to use the registration marks to be sure that the negative is matched up as perfectly as possible to the first layer print otherwise it will print very blurry and lose most of the detail.
Now place a piece of glass on top of the negative, add the frame for the light – if you used this method – then add the light for exposing. Expose the print for the same amount of time as the first layer so 60-65 minutes in this case.
Develop and dry the print
The final step is to develop and dry the print. After the exposure is complete remove the light, frame, and glass and place the print in the developing tray. Develop with plain cold tap water same as the first layer and use a few changes of water to be sure all of the remaining solution is washed away.
When the print is developed and rinsed it can be hung up to dry.
The final print of the duotoned cyanotype
After your print is dry leave it to dry for a week or two as its color will shift over a period of time.
Matthew Bary is a self-taught photographer (spending more time on printmaking than actual photography). He got into alternative photography five years ago and is amazed at all of the processes and innovations done with very old techniques. Matthew Bary lives in Corydon, Indiana, USA and often photographs his local surroundings.
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1 thought on “Duotone cyanotypes #7 – Print the final layer”
Many thanks to this very good series of instructions. This is, what I will try this summer – if ever the sun will shine long enough. Since may we have very unstable, very often changing weather here in Zurich. So my anthotypes will never get enough sunlight… I hope to have more success with cyanotypes!
Question: Do you have any suggestions how long the exposing time will be if I use sunlight?
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Many thanks to this very good series of instructions. This is, what I will try this summer – if ever the sun will shine long enough. Since may we have very unstable, very often changing weather here in Zurich. So my anthotypes will never get enough sunlight… I hope to have more success with cyanotypes!
Question: Do you have any suggestions how long the exposing time will be if I use sunlight?