Build a DIY UV Light Box for Alternative Photography for Home or Classroom

A dependable UV light source is essential for many alternative photographic processes, especially when sunlight isn’t available. Paige Billin-Frye and Mac Cosgrove-Davies share two practical, easy-to-build designs – one made from an IKEA coffee table, the other a purpose-built portable box. Both are affordable, effective, and ideal for processes like cyanotype, gum bichromate, and platinum printing.

Writer and photography / Paige Billin-Frye and Mac Cosgrove-Davies

An ultraviolet (UV) light source is key for many of the alternative photographic processes. Sunlight is one traditional source, but it is not always available. While teaching our classes at Photoworks, students frequently ask how to build a UV light box like the ones we use for our classes. This blog describes the design of two simple and effective UV light boxes suitable for home or instructional use. Both are easy to build, sturdy, and have served us well.

We use these lights in conjunction with contact printing frames to expose for various processes. These include cyanotype, gum bichromate, platinum/palladium, salted paper, oil printing, carbon printing, etc. Printing times vary by process, characteristics of the negative, artistic, intent, etc. For general reference, cyanotype exposures can range from less than a minute to several minutes.

UV light units

The UV lights that we use are: Barrina LED 2 ft. T5. These have worked very well for us. Surely there are other equally suitable lights. Likewise, the 4 foot versions could be useful for some situations. One advantage of the Barrina lights is that they come with plugs that allow for easy interconnection so that a single plug can power multiple lights without the need for soldering or other specialized assembly techniques.

Mounting is also a simple process of screwing on two clips (provided with the lights) spaced about 3/4 of the length of the tube. The tube is then pressed into the clips and clicks into place.

The tubes are then connected in series with the plugs supplied by the manufacturer. The last one in the chain connects to the power source. The power cord includes a cord-switch which allows the lights to be turned on-and-off. Alternatively, they could be connected to a timer as shown in the photos.

Light spacing

there are two types of spacing to consider. One is the distance between light tubes, the other is the distance from the tube to the contact printing frame. Both are at the discretion of the builder. Note that packing the lights closer together results in a higher intensity and a corresponding faster printing time. Likewise, the distance from the light to the printing frame also has an effect on intensity and therefore printing time. For the fastest printing time, lights should be packed as closely together as possible, and the lights themselves should be 2 to 3 inches from the printing frame. If you elect to space the lights further apart, (e.g. 2-3 inches), you may need to increase the distance between the light and the printing frame to ensure even illumination. In any case, the lights should be evenly spaced from one another.

Paige’s Coffee Table Light Box

Shown below is a UV light box made from a coffee table. Pretty much any table could be made to work. This is a simple, low-cost concept with the added benefit that the coffee table can be used for other things when not in-use for printing.

The printing area for this specific light is 18.5”x23”. Lights are mounted about 6” from the shelf below where the contact printing frames are placed for exposure. Materials for this specific table are:

• An IKEA ‘Lack’ coffee table (white) 35″ x 22″ x 18″ (90 cm x 55 cm x 45 cm) model # 904.499.05. Note: this model has a shelf underneath, and comes unassembled.
• 8 Barrina 2 ft. T5 LED black light strips (includes holding brackets, screws, and interconnecting wires.
• cloth to drape over finished box if you want to limit UV exposure outside the box.

To make the light box:

1. Before assembling the table, find the table top. We will be mounting the lights to the UNDERSIDE of the table top.
2. Mark the center of the long edge of the tabletop on the underside.
3. Measure and mark 8 inches in both directions from the center along the long dimension of the table.
4. Draw a line perpendicular to the long dimension at these two 8 inch marks. These lines are guides for installing the holding brackets for the lights.
5. Mark the center of each of these guide lines.
6. The 8 lights will be spaced 2” apart*. Starting at the center of each guide line, measure 1” on each side and make a mark. From each of these marks, measure 2” and mark again. Repeat until each guide line has a total of 8 marks (four on each side of center) Each of which is spaced 2” from its neighbor. These will be where the screws for the holding brackets are inserted.
7. Using an awl, a nail or other similar pointed object, make a starter hole at each of the marks.
8. Using a 1/16th drill bit, drill holes at each of the starter holes. Be sure the hole is no more than ½” deep. The hole should not reach the top part of the tabletop.
9. Install the holding brackets at these starter holes with the screws provided.
10. Assemble the table according to package directions.
11. Snap the T5 light strips into the holding brackets. The light strips will be mounted in parallel with the long dimension of the coffee table.
12. Connect the light strips in series as per manufacturer’s guidelines.
13. Plug-in and test the light box. If all goes well, all 8 light strips will be operated by the cord switch.
14. If desired, the cord can be connected to a timer. If using a darkroom timer, the cord should be connected to the ‘enlarger’ outlet.
15. If desired, use a cloth to cover the light when in use. This would be to limit UV exposure outside the box.

*Note that this spacing provides for even illumination across a printing surface of about 18”. It can be varied if desired. For example the lights could be more tightly spaced to increase the light intensity and reduce printing time. However, this would also mean that there would be a narrower printing surface.

Mac’s Portable UV Light Box

This is a purpose built light box using quarter inch plywood, 3/4”x3/4” strips and a piano hinge. Components are held together with screws. Construction details and dimensions are shown in the drawings and photos. This box uses 8 light tubes evenly spaced within the box connected in series with a single power cord. The box is sturdy enough for instructional use and quite portable.

Materials Needed:

• ¼” plywood sheet. A 4’x8’ sheet would be more than enough. I always check my available cast offs from previous projects before buying new.
• An 8’ length of nominal 1”x2” lumber (which is actually ¾” x 1 ½“.) This will be cut in half to produce ¾” x ¾” strips.
• About thirty #4 flat head wood screws.
• Piano hinge which will be cut down to about 28”
• Handle (this can be a cabinet handle, a wooden knob, etc.)
• 8 Barrina 2 ft. T5 LED black light strips (includes holding brackets, screws, and interconnecting wires.

General Notes:
i) this project involves some modest woodworking skills and equipment.
ii) measure twice, cut once
Iii) exact dimensions depend on the thickness of the selected plywood. This thickness may or may not be exactly ¼”. For this reason I recommend that the pieces be cut immediately prior to use. This will allow for any minor adjustments if needed to ensure a neat, workmanlike product.
iv) Dimensions are provided for the specific box I made. Feel free to adjust as desired, especially if using a different thickness of plywood.
v) Use an awl to make starter holes for screws. All screw holes should be pre-drilled to avoid splitting of the wood.
vi) The exact location and number of screws is up to the discretion of the builder. In general they should be placed to ensure alignment of the piece being secured. Where possible, place holes at least an inch from the end grain to reduce likelihood of splitting. Two screws should suffice for shorter pieces, three for longer ones.
vii) the screws should be enough to hold the project together, but using glue with the screws would make for a stronger box.
viii) I scrape the screws over an old candle to put a bit of wax on them. This makes them easier to screw in.
ix) I used a piano hinge, which makes for a smooth functioning door. Regular cabinet hinges will also work.
x) I have tried to make these directions as clear as possible, but may not have succeeded. Please refer to the drawing and the photos for clarification where needed.

To make the UV light box:

1. Cut the 1”x2” lumber into ¾” x ¾” strips.
2. From one of these strips, cut the four legs, each 5 1/16” long.
3. From the plywood, cut the two side pieces each 5”x15 ¼”
4. Using spring clamps, place a leg at each 5” end of a side piece. Ensure that the leg aligns exactly with the top and 5” edge of this piece. Note that the leg will protrude 1/16th” on the bottom. drill and screw in place (two screws should suffice).
5. Repeat above with other side piece.
6. Cut the back piece and front pieces
7. Drill a ⅝” hole on the back piece as shown in the drawing.
8. Align the back piece with one of the side pieces. The leg should be inside of the box, and the back piece should cover the leg and the edge of the side piece. Temporarily secure with spring clamps. Pre-drill and screw in place.
9. Repeat above for the remaining three legs. Taking note that only the top of the front piece is attached to the legs. The other front piece will be the door, to be attached with the piano hinge.
10. All four sides should now be attached to the legs. Take care not to stress them at this point, as they are quite vulnerable until the top is secured.
11. Carefully measure for where the top will go. Note that the top should cover the top edges of all sides. If all goes well, the dimensions of the top piece should be similar to those on the drawing. However, if there is any discrepancy, make sure to use your own measurements instead of those on the drawing.
12. Cut the top piece.
13. Cut the connector strips and blocks. Note that it is okay to use connector strips all around if you want.
14. Using spring clamps, position the connector strips/blocks as in the drawing. They should be flush with the top of the sides, front, and back. Drill and screw them in place.
15. Carefully position the top so it perfectly covers the sides all around. Drill and screw to the connector strips.
16. Turn the box over and measure the length of the light mounting strips.
17. Cut and install light mounting strips. They should be about 16” apart.
18. Measure the length of the box front where the piano hinge will be mounted.
19. Use a hack saw to cut the piano hinge to length.
20. Install piano hinge on top front of box, then attach the door to the piano hinge.
21. The screws provided with the piano hinge will protrude well through the plywood, which is a hazard. One way to address this is to install a piece of connector strip behind the piano hinge to cover the excess screw length. Another option is to use shorter screws. These may still protrude but much less. Use a file, Dremel, etc. to grind them down.
22. Install handle on door, positioning the handle so it clears the box top when the door is open.
23. The basic box is now complete and usable although a couple of coats of polyurethane would be a good idea. Remove hardware and lightly sand prior to first coat and between coats. Re-install hardware.
24. On the light mounting strips, use a pencil, then an awl to mark locations of brackets to hold the lights. The lights should be evenly spaced and span the inside of the box.
25. Drill holes and install the mounting brackets with the screws provided.
26. Snap the lights onto the mounting brackets.
27. Using connectors supplied with the lights, connect them in series per manufacturer’s instructions. Feed the power cord through the ⅝” hole and tuck the connecting wires so they don’t sag into the printing area.
28. If all went well, the box should be ready for use.

Good luck with printing.

Paige Billin-Frye, an artist and photographer based in Washington, DC, delves into 19th-century photo processes like cyanotypes and salt prints, often toning them with plants from her yard. She intertwines her interests in illustration, hand-bookbinding, and urban landscapes into her work. See Paige’s gallery.
Mac Cosgrove-Davies is a self taught photographer who since 1978 has been practicing historic photographic processes including gum bichromate, cyanotype, Van Dyke, palladium, carbon printing, oil printing, and wet plate collodion. Using antique and self-made film cameras and equipment in various formats (21/4×31/4, 4×5, 5×7, 6×8, and 8×10 inches as well as 5-inch panoramic), he seeks to make unique prints which match his images to the beauty and elegance of the selected photographic process. He is represented in museum and personal collections internationally, and currently leads the Hand Made Photo program for Photoworks at Glen Echo Park, Maryland. See Mac’s gallery.