What is the best tool for digital negatives? Digital negatives make it possible to print photographs taken with a camera or our phone for alternative photographic processes. It is something a lot of artists struggle with. Luckily, several helpful people have come up with systems they share or sell to solve the issue. Which one is best? Hard to say, it depends on your preferences, but what I can do is to point you to the places to find them.
Digital negatives and positives for alternative photographic processes
Traditionally, artists made film negatives in the darkroom. Some still do this, but with darkrooms getting fewer and further between, most artists now use film (also called acetate or OHP film) to print their images on. The film is then used to make a negative and print cyanotype, kallitypes, salt prints, platinum palladiums and many other processes. Some odd ones out that need a Positive (not negative) are anthotypes and chlorophyll prints. Whether you printed a negative or a positive, it is placed on top of your coated paper and sandwiched in place in a contact frame or a clip frame for exposing. The final image will thus be the same size as the negative or positive. There are processes that don’t use negatives or positives, for example, cameraless processes, when making photograms of botanicals or objects by placing them directly on the paper.
The process for making a negative or positive usually goes like this: Take the image with a camera or phone, transfer it to your computer, edit it and turn it into a positive or negative, print it on film, test the negative or positive, perhaps make adjustments depending on the test, then expose the final print. I’ll point you to what you need in each step. There are quite a few abbreviations and odd words used for making negatives, so here is a glossary.
Step 1: Take the image with a camera or phone and transfer it to your computer.
Hopefully, you already know how to do this.
Step 2: Edit the image and turn it into a negative or positive
There are several software programs to choose from, with varying price tags.
- Photoshop from Adobe – Very popular and has all the features you need
- Lightroom from Adobe – A lighter version of Photoshop. Here are instructions for making negatives using Lightroom
- Gimp – Free open source program with many features. Here is how to make negatives using Gimp.
- Photopea – similar features to Photoshop, but online and free
- Affinity from Canva – Free to use, but some features are premium
There are also several systems developed by artists and professionals to help with turning your image into a negative, most often creating curves. Also, check out “Curve Corner“.
- ChartThrob – a free tool for Photoshop that creates grayscale calibration charts and a tool for evaluating scanned prints.
- TruNeg. An article explaining the TruNeg process can be found here.
- EDN – a free tool. Somewhat technical.
- QuadToneRip for Epson printers
- CNG (Calibrated Negative Generator): Turns the image into a black & white negative. Starting at 4.99 or free with a watermark. Demo video.
- Jaquard cyanotype negative generator. Simply inverts the image and makes it black & white.
Step 3: Print the image on film
Printing your negative or positive
A suitable printer is important for producing effective digital negatives. The most important factors are the ability to produce dense blacks and a wide tonal range. Dense blacks ensure that the negative blocks light effectively, while a broad tonal range helps preserve detail in both highlights and shadows. Then there is the question of using a laser printer or an inkjet printer. Most artists seem to prefer inkjet printers, but I know many who are happy with their laser, and others report streaks on the film. I know many who are happy with their inkjet, and others report them prone to clogging. There are pros and cons.
Many photographers use mid-range inkjet printers successfully. Examples often used for digital negatives include printers from the Epson SureColor and Canon PIXMA ranges. Even relatively inexpensive inkjet printers can produce good results, provided they can achieve strong black density. Look for a printer that gives high black density (Dmax), consistent ink (or toner) laydown and good tonal control.
For inkjets, the most popular brands are Canon and Epson. These get updated regularly, so this list may be out of date soon, but as of May 2026, these are good ones (feel free to comment below if you have another favourite!):
- Canon imagePROGRAF Ta-20, or Canon imagePROGRAF PRO-1000
- Canon Pixma ix6820 or Canon Pixma IP8720, or Canon Pixma PRO-100, or Canon Pixma G3560
- Epson EcoTank ET-8550 – a budget printer that may get results
- Epson SureColor SC-P700, Epson SureColor SC-P900, or Epson SureColor P9570
- Epson Stylus Pro 3880
The printers have different setups. Here is an article on how to print negatives, and here is one on printer settings.
Film for negatives or positives
Transparency films (sometimes just called transparencies) are made for inkjet printers OR laser printers. Laser printers are hotter and inkjets load on in rather than toner, so make sure you get one that is compatible with the printer you will be using. It is important to get the film that is suitable for that specific printer. It will affect the result. Pictorico is widely considered the benchmark for digital negatives, but they are pricey. An equally good result can be had with other brands, and Fixxon is one of the popular ones. Some popular films are:
- Arista film
- Fixxons Waterproof Screen Printing Film (see test from Tom Nelson on YouTube)
- Fixxons Digtial negative film
- Grafix Inkjet Transparency Film
- Gold-Up USA – Less expensive and reported to work (untested by us)
- Inkpress transparency film
- Koala film
- PermaJet Inkjet Transparency Film
- Pictorico Pro OHP TPU-100 – slightly more inexpensive than Ultra premium
- Pictorico Ultra Premium TPS100
- Don’t use Pictorico High Gloss!
Some also use store brands and other unbranded products. Do they work? Sometimes they do, sometimes they don’t.
Step 4: Test the negative or positive
Once you have printed your negative or positive, it is good to test it to determine the right exposure time. There are a number of ways to do this.
- Making a test strip
- Determine exposure time with a Stouffer Step wedge. Here are several options where to get a Stouffer Step Wedge.
Perhaps make adjustments depending on the test, then start over at step 2 and edit the image again.
Step 5: Expose the final print
Using the sun
Exposing the print can be done using the sun, and then you may find this useful:
Exposure times around the world (cyan)
- Exposure times in the sun for cyanotypes and a co-lab cyanotype exposure times around the world article.
Using a UV lamp or LED light
Exposure can also be done using a UV lamp or LED light. Then, you may find this useful:
- Build a LED exposure box (using a bought LED lamp)
- Build a UV light box
- Build a LED light box
More articles on exposing the print can be found here.
I hope you found this useful. More articles on negatives can be found here. If I’ve forgotten a great film, printer or tool (most likely), do let me know in the comments and I will add that too!
World Anthotype Day
World Cyanotype Day