A practical guide to building a safe, reliable LED exposure box for cyanotype printing, enabling consistent results without relying on sunlight.
To be able to produce cyanotypes at any time, even without sunlight, I built an exposure box. The simplest solution is to take a piece of cardboard with a base slightly larger than the paper size, remove the bottom completely, and cut a rectangular opening in the top. You then place an LED spotlight on top for exposure, and the setup is ready.
“I wanted something more convenient: a permanently installed box that would not require placing the entire box over the paper for each exposure.”
Materials to build a UV exposure box
First, I compiled a materials list for the 42 × 30 cm (DIN A3) paper format.
For the exposure stand:
- Wooden board measuring 55 × 50 cm
- Planed squared lumber, 5 × 5 cm wide and approximately 75 cm long
- 2 sufficiently long metal brackets with screws
- Shelf brackets for hanging, approximately 35 cm long
- Short rail for shelf brackets
- Angle profile or wooden strip, 30 cm long and approximately 2 cm wide
For the box:
- Cardboard, 50 cm high, with a base area significantly larger than 42 × 30 cm
- Sturdy aluminium foil
- Carpet tape
- Fabric tape
And finally:
- 50-watt 365 nm LED lamp, the one used is this one. The DIN A4
- 1.5 cm thick wooden board measuring 45 × 32 cm (as a flat surface for the paper and glass plate)
How to assemble the UV box
I first assembled the exposure stand. I chose a shelf bracket from which to hang the LED floodlight above the cardboard box. The housing of the LED floodlight can become hot, posing a fire hazard. To secure the floodlight to the narrow shelf support arm, I also mounted an equally long angle bracket to the arm. A suitable wooden strip would also work; I already had the angle bracket available. The LED floodlight is screwed in place so that it sits loosely over the opening of the box.



The box
I used a moving box that was stored in the attic. First, I cut off the bottom flaps, then cut a hole in the top slightly smaller than the surface area of the LED floodlight. I also removed about 6 cm of cardboard from the bottom of one long side of the box. This opening serves as the insertion slot for the support plate holding the paper and glass pane.
Next, I covered all interior surfaces with aluminium foil. The foil reflects the light and helps ensure even illumination. Finally, I sealed all edges with fabric tape. The box was then finished.


To make it easier to pull the carrier plate out of the box, I screwed in two eyelets and attached a ribbon.
An additional advantage of this box is that exposure times are no longer dependent on the UV intensity of sunlight. With this setup, the exposure time is a constant 6 minutes. It depends on the wattage of the LED floodlight and the distance between the light source and the paper, and must be determined individually if these parameters change.
Warning: I advise against using a conventional UV lamp with several hundred watts, as such lamps become very hot and therefore pose a fire hazard.
An exposure box can also be built for paper size 21 × 29.7 cm (DIN A4). In that case, a 30-watt LED floodlight suspended approximately 30 cm above the paper is sufficient. The dimensions of the exposure stand and the cardboard box must be adjusted accordingly.
If you still have a projection stand from your analogue days, it can also be modified for this purpose. I built an exposure box for DIN A4 paper from a projection stand and, in addition, the DIN A3 exposure box described above. Good luck!
The article is available in French and German too:
French: Construction d’une boîte d’exposition à LED
German: Bau einer LED-Belichtungsbox
Manfred J. Semmler photographs travel, street life, and concerts, using available light and shadow to shape mood. His work balances objective observation with a deeply personal, subjective perspective. See his gallery here.




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That should be enough, but it also depends on the DISTANCE from the paper to the light. Move away and you need longer.
Hi! Good post. Just a question: if I have a 100w LED lamp, 10/12 minutes of exposure it’s ok? Thanks.
Hello Peter, Yes, with the “party lights” I guess many are not great quality. I use a Speedball light sometimes (I have a few) for printing. It is made for screenprinting. The only drawback is that it is only 10W, so the exposure time is VERY VERY long (some 45 minutes), but if i have the time, i can set it off and go and do something else. 🙂
I bought an Everbeam and it’s not a month old and the leds are going out. It’s really intended as low cost party lighting. Just be sure to sign up for the warranty.