How to Build a Split-Back Printing Frame for Contact printing

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A reliable contact printing frame is essential for anyone working with alternative photographic processes. While commercial printing frames can be costly, making your own is both affordable and practical. This DIY split-back printing frame is from Ralph Rinke and designed for consistent pressure, easy inspection during exposure, and customizable size. Using basic materials such as hardboard, glass, and spring clamps, this guide walks you through each step to build a simple yet effective printing frame suited for home studios.

Writer and photography / Ralph Rinke


Build a Split-Back Printing Frame in 10 steps

Step 1 – Cut a piece of 1/8” hardboard to your desired frame size. Line it with a rubber mat or heavy black construction paper to cushion the contact print and prevent light leaks.

Cut a piece of 1/8” hardboard to your desired frame size
Cut a piece of 1/8” hardboard to your desired frame size

Step 2 – Add a 3/16” sheet of glass over the hardboard and mat to press your negative and paper firmly. This ensures good contact and sharp prints.

Add a 3/16” sheet of glass over the hardboard
Add a 3/16” sheet of glass over the hardboard

Step 3 – Construct a simple hinge by joining two pieces of hardboard. This profile view shows how the hinge will allow one section to lift for exposure checks.

Construct a simple hinge by joining two pieces of hardboard
Construct a simple hinge by joining two pieces of hardboard

Step 4 – Create a split back by cutting the 1/8” hardboard into two unequal pieces, roughly in a 1/3 to 2/3 ratio. Join them with duct tape to form a flexible hinge.

Create a split back
Create a split back

Step 5 – Use six spring clamps around the edges of the frame to hold everything tightly in place during exposure. Even pressure ensures even contact.

Use six spring clamps to hold everything tightly in place during exposure
Use six spring clamps to hold everything tightly in place during exposure

Step 6 – For added pressure, lay three hardboard slats and a 1/4” wood slat across the back. These improve contact, especially when using thick or curled materials. Mat board can be used as a substitute.

For added pressure, lay three hardboard slats and a 1/4” wood slat across the back
For added pressure, lay three hardboard slats across the back

Step 7 – On the front side, place your coated paper and transparency between the glass and hardboard. This image shows the setup before slats are applied.

place your coated paper and transparency between the glass and hardboard
Place your coated paper and transparency between the glass and hardboard

Step 8 – Apply the slats to the back and secure with clamps. To check exposure mid-print, you’ll need to remove the clamps and slats before lifting the split back.

Apply the slats to the back and secure with clamps
Apply the slats to the back and secure with clamps.

Step 9 – Open the smaller section of the split back to inspect your exposure without disturbing the entire setup. This allows you to assess progress and avoid overexposure.

Open the smaller section of the split back to inspect your exposure
Open the smaller section of the split back to inspect your exposure

Step 10 – View the front with the split back open. This setup lets you peek at part of the print mid-process without shifting the paper or negative.

View the front with the split back open
View the front with the split back open

Ralph Rinke is a Fine Art Photographer living in Parksville on the West Coast of Canada.

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