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Writer / Edwardo Aites

Polaroid image transfer

Always be careful when developing and handling Polaroid film materials. The developing chemicals are somewhat caustic. Keep away from skin and eyes. Read the health and safety instructions.

The Polaroid image transfer process relies on the ability of dyes in the Polaroid emulsion to migrate to an alternative receiver surface during the development process. The "normal" Polaroid process is interrupted and the "negative" is placed on another material (usually paper). The dyes that will form the image are encouraged to transfer by the use of heat and pressure. This process was accidentally discovered when a Polaroid negative was left sitting on a lab counter, according to legend!

Capturing images

This recipe is for making wet image transfers with a Vivitar/Daylab instant printer (the usual starting point for learning the technique). However, it is also possible to make transfers directly using a Polaroid camera that accepts peel-apart film, and to make transfers in a darkroom using an enlarger and a sheet-film holder/processor.

Film

Image transfers can be done with Polacolor 559 and 669 film.

Ingredients

• Positive transparency (such as a color 35mm slide)
• A peel-apart color Polaroid film, such as Polacolor 669

Equipment

• Vivitar or Daylab daylight instant slide printer
• Small photo trays for soaking paper
• Soft rubber roller (used in woodblock printing)
• Optional: Food warming tray to maintain temperature

The method

1Expose the Polaroid film
Use the Vivitar/Daylab instant slide printer to make the exposure. Set the cropping and filtration. Transfers should be somewhat overexposed. Also, a small amount of warming filter can improve the image since the red dyes tend to get lost in the transfer process.

2Prepare the surface
For the wet-transfer method, (far easier than the dry) soak paper such as Arches hot-press 140-pound watercolor paper in warm (80-100 degree) water briefly until it is soft (less than a minute). Remove from water and let it drain. Place on a flat surface and squeezee lightly.

3Start the Polaroid development process
Pull the film through the processing rollers. Use a straight, smooth motion and don't stop halfway! This will distribute the developer evenly. After about 12-15 seconds, pull the two sides of the Polaroid sandwich apart quickly. Set the faint sepia "positive" receiver aside.

4Make the transfer
Place the "negative" Polaroid sheet face down on the prepared damp paper. Roll with the brayer, being careful not to let the negative move in relation to the paper. Use a gentle technique; too much pressure with the roller can distort the image. Let the negative stay in contact with the paper for about two minutes. It is helpful to keep the negative warm during this time - you can float the paper in a tray of warm water. If you have a warming tray, set the water bath on it and turn the temperature to about 100 degrees.

5Separate the negative
After about 2 minutes, (you will need to experiment to see exactly how long it depends somewhat on the room temperature) you are ready to pull the negative from the paper. Remove it from the water and slowly begin to peel back the negative. A very slow pull is the safest technique. If the image starts to lift excessively, try starting from another corner.

6Post processing
Polaroid chemistry is very basic, and it is advisable to neutralize this. A post-processing soak in a weak acid, such as vinegar, is recommended. This also tends to strengthen the colors somewhat. Use a solution of 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water. Soak for no more than 60 seconds with agitation. Then wash in running water for 4 minutes and air-dry.